After a week of relentless rain the sun makes a bold appearance, just as I’m returning the hire car to Auckland Airport. Harrumph. Collecting my UK friends who’ve come to join me for a couple of weeks we relocate to the top of South Island. We pick up another car at Nelson airport. As I have no jet lag I get to drive through the mountains, negotiating the tight twists and turns. Rain returns with thick fog, usefully hiding the steep drops at the roadside. We make a safe arrival in Collingwood in Golden Bay, an old gold mining town within the Abel Tasman National Park. Next to the fire station is a tiny museum, crammed to the gills with fascinating day-to-day artefacts from the town’s heyday. Collingwood is a one-horse town which seems now to be lacking the horse.
At the west of Golden Bay is Farewell Spit, a huge finger of sand stretching out into the Cook Straight, between North and South Islands. For some reason this is where mass strandings of whales occur in the southern hemisphere. It’s a beautiful area with stunning beaches and clear waters. Kayaking appeals but we are restricted by time and opt for some bracing walks instead. On the other side of the Spit the coast is battered by wind and waves. The beach is huge but save the two of us and a few gulls, completely deserted. All salty air and sand between the toes. Bliss. The roar of the waves is deafeningly hypnotic and it’s hard to leave, but a local gin and some tonic beckons.
Jet lag conquered, we arrive back in Nelson to stay with old sailing friends who have a house there. High above a bay with huge swathes of sand, their place has simply stunning views. Somewhat different from Portsmouth Harbour ! We celebrate our host’s birthday with a few glasses of bubbly, which goes down well. Then we wander down to the beach and brave the sea. It’s cool, but probably comparable to the UK in summer. Nice. Next morning the sunrise rouses me at an early hour, all purple and pink over the sea. Really gorgeous.
Sun up, we all pile into a car and head off to sample the wares of the local vineyards. The area around Nelson is very wooded and agricultural, with vast apple orchards, vineyards, kiwi fruits and hops all growing in abundance. I reflect that we seem to produce so little in the UK by comparison. At the roadside there are endless honesty stalls, full of fruit, veg, cakes, jams, pickles. Just like my West Country childhood. We stock up on a few goodies and lunch in the sun at a vineyard restaurant. Remarking that there seem to be fewer sheep than we expected in New Zealand, we pass a dilapidated old wooden farmhouse. It’s full of sheep, looking out of the doors and windows ! If only we could have stopped for a photo.
Next day is my friend’s birthday. We start proceedings by renting paddle boards and exploring the waterfront from the sea. Congratulating ourselves on not falling in, we join our hosts for a lovely alfresco lunch, with cake and fizz, stopping en-route at the delightfully named ‘Lighthouse Brewery’ for some supplies. Located in a modern business unit I’m fascinated to find it full of nautical antiques, an old wooden launch and an Alvis classic car. Interesting mix. And the beer’s pretty good too ! Given it’s also St Patrick’s day we head to a local shopping centre car park, now an outdoor concert venue, all shamrock and green themed. With a selection of ethnic foods available, wines from the local vineyards and folks dressed appropriately, this is a good-natured family event. As the air chills we retire to drink more fizz and be battered at Scrabble.
The day of our host’s birthday party dawns sunny again. To the market in town which is full of everything you can think of and more. A great place to mooch. Dodging souvenirs, foodstuffs procured, we take a table in Penguino*, one of the best ice-cream parlours I’ve ever had the pleasure to visit. A tasting plate of 9 flavours is a palate blower. Mango, mojito, blackcurrant, cappuccino, coconut…not sure I can remember them all, but each is an original, hand-made delight. Dutifully keeping out of the way of the party prep a number of options are on offer. Sadly the land yachting is closed. The peanut butter factory tour** has my vote but is eclipsed by an odd combination of a classic car museum and the World of Wearable Art***. The latter is utterly bonkers but it’s hard not to admire the imagination and workmanship involved.
A quick swim in the sea, glad rags on and the champagne is flowing again. A lovely day, with lovely people.
*http://www.penguino.co.nz/ (needs flash player)