Landing back in Auckland after my South Seas sojourn, all is mayhem ! The city is awash with people of a certain vintage in bright lycra and matching backpacks. Seems I’ve coincided my arrival with registration day for the World Masters Games. Transport and hotel rooms are rare as hen’s teeth. I sense a challenge ahead and no, I’m not even competing !
Down by the harbourside the maritime museum has a lighthouse exhibition and lots of small boats. A gallery tribute to the late Sir Peter Blake* is moving. He was such a legend and is so loved in his home country. In the ‘Viaduct’ the leisure marine industry sits alongside the NZ America’s Cup team HQ. Team NZ flew to Bermuda yesterday, so not a lot to see, but there is a strong belief here that Team New Zealand are the ones to ‘bring the cup home’. As I write this, I’m smiling because they did just that, in convincing style and I’m delighted for them. Nice excuse to come back in 2021 ?
My racing opportunity is around the islands of the Hauraki Gulf. It’s a full day, with light winds, plenty of sunshine and a great crew.
We sail round a ‘young’ volcano, Rangitoto Island**. Its last eruption was about 550 years ago, which is only yesterday in geological terms. It looks like a ‘proper’ volcano in silhouette. We finish at dusk. It’s a treat to see the cityscape from the water, all pretty lights crowned by the Sky Tower, changing colour in the darkness.
Conscious Auckland is overfull, I grab another hire car and head for the ferry. My destination is Waiheke Island in the gulf, an hour over the water and highly recommended by everyone I meet. The Hauraki Gulf is huge and there are many islands dotted around, all green and indented with bays and beaches.
So pretty ! Once a hippy enclave, Waiheke is now a favourite playground for well-heeled Aucklanders. Many own a ‘bach***’ to escape to in this favourite location. The main town is full of tempting little shops; delis, wine shops and clothes and homewares; chic like nothing else I’ve seen in New Zealand. There are around 30 wineries on the island and plenty of yachts in the bay. Unsurprisingly I feel at home.
Next morning I’m gutted to find my much-needed early night meant I miss a rare opportunity to see the Aurora Australis (‘Southern Lights’) from the terrace of my little studio. The news is alive with stunning photos. Oh well, another excuse to come back…
I collect my Auckland pal from the foot ferry and we set off, Thelma and Louise style, to explore the length and breadth of Waiheke. Past lovely houses, lovely bays, lovely beaches, we have an equally lovely walk over the green rolling hills of the eastern end of the island.
Several kilometres down a dirt road is the Man O’War winery. Elegantly located on a secluded bay, we take our table on the lawn, order a light lunch and some suitably expensive chardonnay. We barely speak, soaking up the sun to the sound of pétanque and contented chatter. Many folks arrive by boat as it’s easier than the road, but of course there’s a lawn for helicopters too.
On my own again, I go upmarket at Mudbrick winery, which oozes relaxed, Mediterranean style. Grabbing a sofa on the terrace, I order a huge glass of Sauvingnon Blanc and watch the sun set over the Coromandel Peninsula.
I’m back where I started in this country. In the distance is the Auckland skyline. Truly stunning !
My last day on Waiheke is picture perfect. Conscious this wonderful odyssey of mine is almost over, every bay and beach has to be explored. It’s Anzac Day, a public holiday and families are enjoying themselves outdoors, as only Kiwis can. Palm Beach gets my vote. Depositing my stuff on the sand, it’s into the clear, clear water to luxuriate in probably my last sea swim in a while.
The last house on the beach has a huge red flower sculpture in the garden, its’ petals slowly opening and closing as it gently revolves. It’s mesmerising and I have no idea how long I bob around watching it. Lunch on the beach is accompanied by cheeky glass of local wine. Arriving at the ferry we have to reverse down the ramp to take our places aboard. Now that was fun !
My last day in New Zealand and of my travels is spent with another new friend. We head to Piha on the western coast. My guide book suggests the surfing here is suitable only for the fearless. It’s beautiful and the air full of spray, waves crashing on the rocks.
Lion Rock is a sacred Maori site and divides the two halves of the beach. We climb as far as we can and view the brave souls in the water. The rip currents are clear from this v vantage point. The surfers work them to advantage, clearly possessed of local knowledge. Rather them…
On the way back we stop for a late lunch at Elevation; named for it’s incredible panoramic views of the city and gulf from the terrace. I’ve been here long enough to identify many of the islands. Almost a local !
I remain firmly in denial about tomorrow’s flights home. I’ve mixed feelings about going back to the UK and my other life. New Zealand has been a slow burn.
I have grown to love this friendly country, with it’s diversity of land and peoples and know I want to return. One day…
*http://sirpeterblaketrust.org/sir-peters-history
*https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peter_Blake_(sailor)
**https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rangitoto_Island
***http://www.newzealand.com/uk/feature/new-zealand-bach/