Matauri Bay is a find.  An achingly pretty swathe of sand, it’s as sun-drenched as the turquoise sea in its’ bay.   A stroll along the shore to inhale the energising air and sink my toes into the sand is a tonic.

I wander through the campsite at the end of the bay, ignoring the ‘do not enter’ signs.  In the distance is a gate.  On the other side I climb the path through the trees, glimpsing gorgeous views as I get higher.

At the top the view opens up.  Blue sea twinkles on 3 sides of the headland.  Under the waves, just off a small island, is the wreck of the Rainbow Warrior 1, bombed by the French in 1985*.  

Next to me is a patch of grass and a memorial made of stones and wood, simple and elegant.  It overlooks the site of the ships’ final scuttling in recognition of the loss.   The Kiwis do not wish this episode to be forgotten.

Continuing my journey north, another recommendation allows me to pause for fish and chips at the game fishing club in Whangaroa Harbour.  Nom, nom.

Fed and watered, another ‘must do’ is just round the corner.  Car parked, I follow a grass and mud track up to St Paul’s rock, a volcanic plug overlooking the huge harbour. 

It’s windy.  The last part is literally a scramble up the rock, using embedded chain to haul myself the final few feet.  But the reward is a cracking 360° panorama of hills, sea, sand and oyster beds for miles around.  I have the place to myself and drink in sun, rain and rainbows all at the same time.  Wow !

After more seaside towns and bays, I reach Kaitaia.  Located at the base of the long, thin strip of land that stretches to the very top of North Island, it’s the perfect place from which to explore.   Sadly the town is not pretty and some of it quite run down.  But to it’s credit, it’s functional.  I’ve an apartment on the outskirts of town and a collie for company.  He joins me to watch the sunset filling the sky with oranges and reds.  With one of the latter in my hand, it’s not all bad.

*   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sinking_of_the_Rainbow_Warrior