Our next day in Queenstown is all about boats. And it’s a day of contrasts. Keen to tap into the famous adrenaline activities, we readily agree a bungy jump is not on anyone’s list. Jet-boating*, however, is. Arriving at the Shotover River a few miles above Lake Wakatipu, the water is a beautiful turquoise, stony and very shallow. A bridge straddles the river, beyond which is a narrow, rocky gorge.
As we wait to be called, pictures of Wills, Kate and Ed Sheeran in lifejackets smile from the wall. Well, if they are smiling… A red boat appears from upstream, roaring, travelling at high speed on the wide part of the river, occupants screaming. Looks good so far. Then we hear the clang of metal on rock as the boat grounds out. Feeling slightly less comfortable now. Oh well.
Wedged in the back of the boat, happy to be away from the sides, we head upstream for a short safety brief and some acclimatisation. Turns and spins seem quick, the skipper handling the red beast as if managing a powerful dog on a short chain. Fast and furious. I think I’m gasping. I sense it’s a fine line between thrills and spills.
Hating fairground rides, I’m only partially in my comfort zone, but we’re off, under that bridge, into the canyon. It’s narrow and irregular, with protrusions everywhere. The first few turns feel accidental, as if we have almost crashed. The first 360° spin leaves us a few inches from rocks. This is not how boats are meant to behave ! Being low down, the speed is all the more evident. Jet boats stop on a sixpence, with a lot of spray. There must be a real skill in throwing them around to precisely the right part of the flow to perform a thrilling and successful pirouette. With no propellor they only need 10cm depth of water, so use the displaced wash to give a bigger playground. Many times I’m convinced we are on the dry stuff. An amazing experience ! I get out with a grin on my face, but seeing the video afterwards, my sailing friend and I are using some choice words during the ride. Scared ? Moi ? Mrs laps it up like a teenager. Later on I cheerily Google ‘jet boat deaths’. Unsurprised to find there have been a few here.
Our second boat-related encounter of the day is with a fellow Antarctic crew-member who lives in Queenstown. Russell and I were part of the same watch on Europa and it’s lovely to meet him and his wife Louise on their home turf. He’s looking really well and relaxed. We describe our morning excitedly and they roll their eyes. Hey, we are tourists !
After lunch we go from the ridiculous to the sublime. TSS Earnslaw** is a ‘Twin Screw Steamship’, fired by coal. Built in 1912, she is 105 years old, and quite a beauty. Formerly the only link between the town and the farms and villages dotted around the lake, old photographs aboard show her loaded with sheep, bales of wool and milk, taking them to market. There is a lovely scenic road along one side of the lake, but it’s relatively new. Back in the day tourists would have to cuddle up with the sheep to see the sights.
Today it stops at a typical old farmstead, now a visitor attraction. Throngs of noisy and eager Chinese tourists give us a perfect reason to stay aboard and explore the engine room. And it’s a fine, hot, oily, place where the firemen are hand stoking the boilers with coal in the shadow of huge, shiny pistons. The steam whistle makes a gorgeous sound, audible down the lake. A highly polished brass telegraph is still the method of communication between captain and crew. ‘Ting, ting, “Full Steam Ahead”’. I love it !
The wind has increased and ‘white horses’ gallop up the lake. Our return journey is bracing, but it keeps the rest of the folks inside as it’s too windy for selfies. We contemplate the sailing opportunities on the lake, but conclude there are very few places to stop where an anchor would touch the bottom. Shame, as it’s a big, beautiful stretch of water.
Next morning we take Mr to the airport as he has to be back at work in the UK. Sitting at a junction in town, about half a mile away a giant shark rears out of the water and falls dramatically back in again. I nearly crash the car. Then we start to giggle. In this place of thrilling rides, a big fish is a whole new one. A submersible shark experience***.
Now how did we not know about this… ?