At Airlie Beach I fancy a flight in a seaplane over the Great Barrier Reef. No such luck. ‘Seats book up weeks in advance, madam’. Ho hum. Plan B then. More research. The Tasmanian seaplane company went to the wall a couple of years ago. Wait, there are two offering flights in (or rather over) Sydney. Perfect ! I know the geography a little and will get more out of the views as a result. I book.
![]()
Rose Bay is the delightfully named home to Sydney’s first international airport, or rather ‘Rose Bay Water Airport’. This is where huge flying boats once connected Sydney with the rest of the world in sumptuous style and at eye-watering expense*. How I wish I could have experienced those beasts of the sky. Around the world, landing and taking off on water, wherever there was a ‘runway’, however remote. Life at a slower pace and truly part of the jet set, before such a term existed.

I choose to breakfast at the swanky cafe of the bigger seaplane operation, watching the military precision of marching the next passengers down the pontoon and onto their ‘floatplane’, as they are known here. Out and back they go, to schedule. In the back of the cafe is an exhibition about the flying boat service with Australia. I am fascinated, convinced I was born in the wrong era. There is something about them that screams adventure, champagne and British Empire.

Tearing myself away, I walk round the bay to the other seaplane jetty. The water is calm, crystal clear and full of fish. The sun shining, blue sky and a gentle breeze. Perfect conditions ! I meet my fellow passengers and our host escorts us to the aluminium launch. The older ladies are not too comfortable., even though they are not the ones flying. I’m sure they would have preferred a nice pontoon to walk on. 15 minutes later we are still bobbing, waiting for the plane. There is only one and it’s a 1960’s vintage. After another 15 minutes, she lands close by. The pilot drops onto the float and nonchalantly ties a line onto a buoy. In a boat on the water, I’m right in my comfort zone, but I sense no-one else is ! We come alongside and climb aboard. In the plane we are 4, plus the pilot/owner, buckled up and ready for the off. I’m so excited.

Taxi-ing across the bay, skitting over the wavelets, we eventually lift off the water and fly low to the east and the Heads. She takes a while to gain height. The cockpit looks like a museum piece. I love this !! My face is hurting, I’m grinning so much. Didn’t realise how much I wanted to do this. Below us is a nautical anomaly. A group of rocks called the ‘Sow and Pigs’. Cardinal buoys mark the rocks and unusually (bear with me land-lubbers) ALL 4 cardinals mark this group. I’ve sailed past it several times and yes, it’s that clear ! Better than a text book ! We fly out through the Heads at the entrance to the harbour and north along the ‘Northern Beaches’. The views are to die for. Out over the final headland and up to the famous ‘Palm Beach’, as featured in ‘Home and Away’ (no, never seen it !) From the air it’s like a giant chart. Every feature as clear as a bell and the sea so invitingly turquoise. I recognise places I’ve visited. The pilot comments on the unusual cloud formations over the sea and gets his phone out to take pictures. Er, who’s flying this thing, then ?…!!

We turn and head over the beautiful Pittwater River and woodlands surrounding it. Reminds me of south Cornwall, all wooded valleys, yachts and green water. Except here the property is only for deep-pocketed folks. I can only dream. I’ve heard Nicole Kidman has a house here. Soon the city appears on the horizon and the icons of the Opera House and Harbour Bridge are clear to see. Alongside Circular Quay, between the two, Cunard’s Queen Mary2 looks suitably elegant and quite huge, even from up here!


A figure of 8 over the city and we are back in Rose Bay. Our pilot touches down softly on the water, the 30 minute flight (actually 40) showcasing the best of the Sydney landscape. What timetable ?! We disembark and swap places with a young couple, giddy with excitement as they are off to a remote restaurant for a romantic lunch. Lucky devils !

Back on dry land I am aching. My face is not used to this much grinning. I’ve surprised myself with how much this meant to me and just what a buzz it is. A massive highlight, I’m so, so glad I did this. If only there were a flying boat still in operation…

*http://www.australia.gov.au/about-australia/australian-story/flying-boats-of-australia