I’m looking forward to Sydney for so many reasons. Many folks to see, most of whom I know from the UK, who are Aussies. And then there is just the fact that Sydney is an amazing place, full of opportunity and buzz. And generally the sun shines… Flying over the city on our approach, that is certainly true.
After a great welcome from an old sailing buddy, I’m off to visit a long-standing friend of my brother whom made his home here many years ago. A couple of ferries, a walk through a very chic suburb and Tim greets me like 30 years is yesterday! Down the steps at the side of the house, onto the pontoon and we are aboard his boat for an evening race. As we round the delightfully named Cockatoo Island for the final leg, the beers come out to join the sun and we are the winners ! Yay! Back on his terrace, friends join us for a curry supper overlooking the water. This is how Sydneysiders live…
Based in the ‘Northern Beaches’, I spend much time criss-crossing the huge harbour on the iconic green and yellow harbour ferries, usually via Manly. The last bastion of the unions in Sydney, they are much-loved and fiercely protected (their deckhands earn a generous white-collar salary!!). Disappointed I was not around on Australia Day to see their ‘Ballet’.
My host has tickets for a girls’ night at the Sydney Opera House. I’m excited, but I don’t do opera. Thankfully this is a tad different! ‘Barbu’* is best described as Cirque du Soleil meets burlesque, with huge beards. Think hipsters with very little clothing and massive facial hair performing amazing acrobatic feats. Able to take wine into the auditorium, the audience is very appreciative, especially of the naked finale. Of course we don’t end there and it’s a very late one for a school night. Ooops!
Later in the week I take the SOH backstage tour, which is way more respectable. Facts I retain include: it was designed in response to a 1946 competition, but not completed until 1973. Progress was troubled and the whole thing ran way over budget. The design of ‘sails over the harbour’ was selected and approved before an engineer had looked at whether building it was even possible ! The Danish designer is no longer alive, however his son is still a consultant to the building. There is no disabled access as no-one cared in 1946 (or even 1973). It’s just accepted as how it has to be. Regardless, it is still quintessentially Sydney and Australia.
Back in Manly, the surf championships are on with all sorts of surf-related sports scheduled and a carnival of stalls on shore. Outrigger canoes look fun and the board surfers are practising in the sea all day long. There’s also a kayak race across the harbour which is a long, old way! Best of all is the inflatables race, where children and adults compete on giant inflatable beach toys: Nemo, flamingoes, swans, sharks, ducks, turtles, unicorns…whatever takes your fancy. Disappointed to miss the race itself, I do see many competitors walking down the street immediately after, dragging their ride along behind them, deflated and bizarre. Great fun.
A pleasant surprise for me is just how many walking tracks there are around Sydney and its’ huge harbour. Many coves and beaches to be explored and even a lake or two. Aboriginal rock carvings, thousands of years old lurk along the way. I tackle a couple of classic trails and tuck in a cheeky swim at a deserted cove. On the nearby rocks a couple of indigenous Australians are (illegally) spear-fishing for eels – and catching a few. Impressive sight! Can’t believe this is technically in a city….
In-flight magazines are usually wallpaper to me, but something recently caught my eye, so I go on the trail of a ‘secret garden’. Right by the harbour bridge. Once a piece of unkempt railway land, this is a labour of love by an avid gardener. Wendy Whiteley lived adjacent to the site and many years ago took matters into her own hands, quite literally, when she decided to curate the area into something special. You need to know where it is**, but once there it’s a maze of gorgeous trees and plants, tables and chairs and quirky sculptures round every corner. People are having coffee, reading books and eating their lunch. Recently the council agreed to let the garden stay, which is wonderful because it really is an oasis of calm and reflection. There are so many levels here you feel it’s your own private space.
If only I had a picnic and a cheeky bottle with me !
* http://www.cirquealfonse.com/en/shows/barbu/
**https://www.northsydney.nsw.gov.au/Recreation_Facilities/Parks_Reserves/Search_Parks/Lavender_Bay_Parklands